Missing a taste of the sea

All I could think about was “lobster roll”.

My trip to Boston in November for work didn’t allow much sightseeing time, but everyone has to eat, right? And since you have to eat, you may as well make good choices. As a landlocked Saskatonian, my eating plans whenever I get near a coast involve unholy amounts of seafood. And on the east coast, my mind turns to lobster, and in particular, lobster rolls.

You can imagine my glee when I discovered one of Boston’s best lobster rolls was a short two block walk from my hotel in the Back Bay. I strolled into Luke’s Lobster and after being momentarily distracted in noticing that their in-season crab was from New Brunswick (yea Atlantic Canada!), I ordered a lobster roll and with the tiny bit of restraint I had, took time to snap this picture of it in all its crustacean beauty…

Lobster roll at Luke's Lobster

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The harbor and crabs

Even I scratched my head at my pick of Baltimore for this past year’s baseball trip destination. Sometimes the shackles of airline points make for interesting trip planning ideas. I’m a firm believer that there’s plenty of good and fun anywhere if you look for it, and in Baltimore, there were two things that I knew would help round out my trip. First, their harbor (it pains me to write that in the American spelling, I’ll revert to the Canadian and correct spelling for the remainder) would give me some salt water exposure that I’m sorely lacking now that I live in Saskatoon. And secondly, the crab. Oh the glorious, glorious, Maryland crab.

The best single meal I had in Baltimore was also the most simple. Sitting down at a harbour-front patio, I was brought a brown paper bag of steamed Maryland crabs coated in Old Bay, a traditional local beer and a small mallet. I did what came naturally and spent an hour or so working through the crab and picking the shells clean of meat. This was a simply delicious meal.

Baltimore crab

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Outsider art in Baltimore

I ended up choosing Baltimore as my baseball trip destination last year mostly by default. For the week I could get away, it was the only place in North America I could get to on my airline points. Not knowing much about the city, once I started planning for the trip there was something that immediately caught my eye. The American Visionary Art Museum, located just around the other side of the harbour from downtown, is a one of a kind art museum in the USA. It is a museum that specializes in “outsider art.” That alone got me interested in visiting this place.

What exactly is outsider art? It’s quirky. It’s outlandish at times. It’s thematically based and curated in a way that I haven’t seen in other more traditional art museums. It’s exactly the kind of art I’m attracted to when traveling. Many times, I’ll use a city’s avant-garde public art as a way of exploring a new place… In Baltimore, they put it all under and around one roof.

Sometimes you just need an example to get a feel for what an art museum is all about. In a gallery featuring an exhibition about art relating to food, this is “Swpeepish Chef” by Christian Twamley – it’s the Muppet’s Swedish Chef made 100% out of Peeps marshmallow candies.

Swpeepish Chef by Christian Twamley

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Looking back on 2017

Twelve months, a touch more than 50,000km in the air and lots of trains, cars, buses, and subways stitched together a motley crew of places in this year’s travels – Portland, Paris, Lyon, Beaune, Reims, Montreal, Winnipeg, Atlanta, Halifax, Kelowna, Baltimore, Regina and Boston. The places were all lovely (I might be stretching that a bit for Baltimore), but what will stick in my mind is a series of moments and memories. Sometimes they are about the place, but most often, they’re about something else – people, food, a feeling – the really timeless stuff.

In no particular order, here are my favourite memories from my travels throughout 2017.

1. Crushing pints with Dad in Montreal – Less than two hours after touching down in Montreal, Dad coming in from Halifax, me from Saskatoon, we were in craft beer bar Benelux with a couple of pints on the table in front of us. The sun coming in the window on a late March afternoon was glorious, the beer cold and delicious, but the best thing was simply catching up with Dad as one pint turned into two.

Beers with dad at Benelux

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Baltimore beer, ballpark beer

For the four days I was in Baltimore in August, the temperature ranged somewhere from smoking hot to just inside the gates of Hell hot. And humid to boot… like, sweat through three shirts a day humid. Luckily, watching baseball games doesn’t require much exertion, and there’s a ready supply of beer nearby for hydration. Camden Yards, where I spent most of the trip, has a fairly reasonable lineup of craft beers from Maryland and beyond. For game one, the Numero Uno from Flying Dog, a Mexican lager, had a hint of spice and a touch of lime that seemed to help cut through the humidity and made for a very refreshing drink. Another standout from my four days at Camden Yards was the Steady Eddie (named after Orioles legend Eddie Murray) from Union Craft Brewing. This white IPA was delicious, and was an outstanding pairing with the crab waffle fries.

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Baseball trip 2017

Every summer I take a four or five day baseball trip. The calculus is normally fairly simple – where can my airline points get me and where is there a decent deal on a nice hotel. As long as there’s baseball and summer nights with a cold beer in my hand, the teams and the city don’t matter too much. While I was planning my trip this year, I had more trouble than normal finding a combination that would work in my schedule. I went through permutations for Milwaukee, St. Louis, Denver, San Diego, Pittsburgh, Cleveland, Detroit and a host of other cities until I found that the only place my about to expire United points would get me to was Baltimore. Never really had any desire to visit Baltimore, but Camden Yards and the promise of four days of fresh crab was too good to pass up.

After flying on a red-eye flight through Toronto and sleeping in Pearson for a couple of hours (using points isn’t always glamorous), I arrived in Baltimore slightly jet-lagged, but happy to walk into Camden Yards – a temple of baseball on a scorching hot Saturday night. She’s a beauty ballpark.

Camden Yards

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Second “zoo” of the trip

When my wife and I plan trips together, there is a lighthearted tug of war over one topic. My wife will ask “can we go to the zoo there?” and I’ll reply “you only get one zoo trip a year.” We share a laugh and continue on with the trip planning. Sometimes the zoo is a no brainer, like in San Diego. I think technically, I didn’t even count that as the year’s zoo. I’m not dead set against zoos, per se. I’m an animal lover, but with some notable exceptions, once you’ve seen one zoo, you’ve generally seen all zoos.

When we planned out our trip to Kelowna, there were two places my wife wanted to visit that looked suspiciously like zoos. We laughed a lot at exceeding the year’s quota in 5 days and I may have requested 2018 to be a zoo-free travel year. The first “zoo” was fun and had me snuggling with a baby walaroo. ┬áThe second “zoo” wasn’t even really a zoo at all, and it was probably my favourite part of our Okanagan trip that didn’t involve wine. ┬áThe Arion Therapeutic Farm, a short drive from downtown Kelowna, was in essence a small working farm and conservation park for animals. Before even meeting any of the four-legged inhabitants, the place had me hooked with its sheer beauty.

Arion Therapeutic Farm

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Touring BC wine country

Upon returning home from five days in the Okanagan I wondered to myself “why haven’t I visited here before?” My wife and I have traveled to some very interesting wine areas in the world – Sonoma and Napa in California, Champagne and Burgundy earlier this year even – so there really isn’t an excuse why we waited this long to visit the premier wine region in our own country. Making up for lost time, one of the first wineries we visited in the Okanagan was Summerhill Pyramid Winery, just outside of Kelowna.

Summerhill Pyramid Winery

This visit was as much for the view from their winery over Okanagan Lake and to have lunch at their restaurant. Luckily for us, we had a beautiful day to sit outside on their patio to have our meal.

Summerhill Pyramid Winery

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More than just wine

When I hear “Okanagan”, the first thing that comes to mind is wine. On my trip there in August, I visited a lot of wineries and sampled liberally. But I also found ample time to pop into some craft breweries and bars in and around Kelowna for a taste of the Okanagan’s rapidly growing beer culture.

While making Kelowna my base for this trip, it allowed me to visit a number of breweries all within the city limits. Tree Brewing, right in downtown, is the largest craft brewer in the city with a wide distribution network. I was even able to get some of their beers when I lived in Nova Scotia. Their brewery’s taproom is a great space with multiple levels, different seating arrangements and a stack of board games. My wife and I pulled Yahtzee off of a shelf and she proceeded to take the title of Kelowna champion while I sampled a few delicious brews.

Tree Brewing in Kelowna

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